Not too long ago Ronda Rice Carmen of ‘All the Best Blog’ asked me what my most treasured possession was to which I replied, John Fowlers address book - which it was - or is - or….sometimes is! I mean do YOU actually have ONE consistent most treasured item, because the truth is I fall in love pretty frequently. My most treasured possession du jour for example, comes hot on the heels of my recent trip to Moravia with Nicky; my signed copy of ‘The Journey‘ by Celia Sternberg. Though strangely, MY journey begins much before that, when I posted one of my very first blogs on Diana Phipps. Last fall, deep in the basement of Conde Nast amongst the vintage Vogues I came upon that pink plaid bathroom, designed by Diana Phipps, which appears in Affordable Splendor (an old copy of which rests on my cottage bookshelves). Nicky at the time, and as is often the case, says - ‘of course Diana, wonderful decorator, she is absolute heaven and a great friend of mine‘ - and I posted the blog and that was that.

Months later we plan our trip, and Nicky determines it would be just as easy to fly home via Prague, and we could spend a night at Diana’s (Phipps nee Countess Sternberg) wonderful house. He also tells me I MUST read ‘The Journey’ and I ignore his advice because I believe that sometimes there is merit in approaching an adventure in the mindset of La Farge…that is ‘that we should bring no books, read no books, but come as innocently as we could‘. So having spent a week touring the Czech Republic and surrounded by unspeakable beauty, we arrived, were so warmly welcomed - wonderfully overwhelmed by Castolovice.

Yes SO warmly welcomed despite the magnificent scale and grandeur of Castolovice! I quickly realise my mistake because instantly I want to know EVERYTHING about the house, and the divine Diana (who does not generally go by Countess although she has added Sternberg back to her name).

I am very sweetly lent a copy of the book, (which I am subsequently allowed to steal) written by Diana’s mother, and which I stay up all night reading! ’The Journey‘ is everything I love - history, aristocracy, ancient lineage, castle-owning cousins, eccentricity, humour, poverty, and tragedy written in the most brilliant irreverent prose. From Castlovice (and other family palaces) the Sternberg’s were forcibly removed by the Nazi’s during the war, only to return in ’45, then forced to flee again in ’48 when the house was taken over by the Communists. It was in fact eventually to house a refrigerator repair school until 1989 when Countess Sternberg, almost accidentally, was returned to the home she left when she was 11; the result of various difficult restitution arrangements. She has spent the last 20 years making good the extensive and exhaustive damages the house has suffered.

On a lighter note - this is a typical Diana touch. We dined for example, with all the fine Nymphenberg china…AND a cow dressed as a pink poodle on the table!! A sense of humour I can tell from ‘The Journey’… she has inherited from both her mother and father.

…and just a FEW of the Sternberg 8-sided stars at Castolovice, although surely it is Countess Sternberg’s which shines the brightest. This was a truly magical experience and here are two very poor videos (my fault) which I hope will give you a better taste of it all. Now if you, like me, are hooked…exclusive arrangements can be made to accomondate parties of six to stay. Contact Harriet Landseer at [email protected]